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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.